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ESOX HUNTER
Throw Backs and Boatside Maneuvers
By Gordy Johnson        December 8, 2007

Figure 8 Catch Fish                                                   The Figure 8

Throw Backs and Boatside Maneuvers - By Gordy Johnson

I have been chasing muskies for a very long time, forty five years to be exact.   Over that period of time I couldn't even guess the number of muskies that have followed a lure I was throwing back to the boat.  I would say they number at least 5 to 10 times or more to the number that actually decided to hit the bait, and those are only the ones I know about.

There is nothing in fishing to my knowledge that gets the adrenalin pumping more and the same time frustrates a fisherman more than watching a big musky follow his bait in only to have it turn away as the lure gets closer to the boat.   Wow, the thoughts that go through your mind at that time!   You think, "What did I do wrong?"   "The fishing Gods really hate me, there is no other reason!"   The first response is typically throw and throw the same lure, most of the time retrieving much faster than you were doing before the follow.  It is sort of the poor man's way of hoping to turn back time or at least trying to cover as much water as possible before the fish disappears forever.   If you have fished for muskies, you know what I am talking about.                                 The classic "L" maneuver

Starting From the Beginning

While there are number of follows that you can easily see, there are probably more that you don't see.   There are a number of reasons why spotting a following fish might be difficult: the fish could be following deep, the fish could be following far back, the water could be dirty or there could be a glare on the water.   The first step in getting following fish to show themselves or potentially to hit the lure is what is called a L-Maneuver.   Instead of retrieving the lure back to the rod straight and raising the lure out of the water, you would retrieve the lure leaving about 18 inches of line from the rod.  You would sweep the rod in a 90 degree angle from the way lure was coming in (L shape), which changes the direction of the lure (see graphic).  It is important not to stop the lure, but to keep it moving at least at the same speed it was being retrieved, if not faster.   This maneuver by itself can sometimes trigger a fish to strike, but it can often get a following fish to a least show itself.

The Figure 8

The L-maneuver is typically done to determine if the angler should go into what is called a figure 8.   I you don't get a hit or spot a fish following during your L-manueuver, simply pick the lure up and go into your next cast.   It is extremely important to pay attention on the L turn, as you will only have a second sometimes to spot a fish and go into a figure 8.   Many anglers feel it is necessary to figure 8 on every cast, but doing it on every cast will cut the number of casts you can make and it will tire you out as well.   While you can figure 8 on every cast, I prefer to save this maneuver for those times when I actually see a fish following.                                                               The Figure 8

To execute a figure 8, you literally continue the L maneuver, while simultaneously pushing your rod tip into the water.   You will push the rod tip into the water at various depths (to obviously change the depth of the bait) all the while moving the bait as least as fast as you retrieved it, typically faster.   The figure 8 is called a "figure 8", because the angler will move the bait making the shape of a big 8 in the water (see the graphic).   In this maneuver you are trying to give the following fish the impression that the prey, your lure, has seen it and has panicked and is trying to escape.   Hopefully this action will trigger the follower into making an attack on the lure.

It is important to never stop the movement of the bait and if anything you should continue to pick up speed and change the depth of lure.   Depending on the mood of the fish, you would continue to perform the figure 8 for various lengths of time.   If you are dealing with a hot fish (following close, with gills potentially flared, mouth ajar), if the fish doesn't immediately hit, I would continue to figure 8 for several minutes.   A truly hot fish may move off, but there is a good chance it hasn't left.   Just when you think it is gone, it will suddenly reappear.  If the fish is lazy (following far back, with little or no interest), I would figure 8 only for a minute or two, and then go to a throw back lure, which I will talk about in a minute.

So are all lures good candidates for a figure 8?"   You can figure 8 any bait, but some work much better and more effectively than others.   The spinner bait is probably the best bait to figure 8 and a top water is probably the worst.  All other baits fall somewhere in between with regard to effectiveness.   Speaking of effectiveness, how effective is a figure 8?   Some musky fishermen claim to catch between 40 - 50% of their muskies on a figure 8.   I personally can't claim that high of a percentage, mine is probably closer to 25 - 30%. There is also a big difference between the percentage of fish caught on a figure 8, than converting a following fish into a striking fish.  My percentage of converting a follower to a striker is probably around 20%.                                                               Around the point

Alternates to The Figure 8

The classic figure 8 maneuver does have some problems, especially with big fish.   Big fish cannot make sharp turns, so many times a the classic figure 8 will not work as a big fish literally can't make the cut.   Many fishermen, including myself will do alternative moves that remove this limitation.   The first move is to do everything in the figure 8, but instead of doing a figure 8 design simply make a large circle.   This eliminates the sharp turns of the figure 8.  

My favorite alternate to the figure 8, I call the end around (not a football play).   I have a double console open bow boat, with an elevated casting deck, which is where I normally fish.   I prefer, especially with a hot big fish, is to literally drag the bait (as I would in a figure 8) around the point of the boat to where I no longer have free board, then I reverse course if necessary and go back the other way (see graphic). This method has worked really well for me as I have had several muskies literally come up from under the boat and crunch the bait on the other side. I have also had them literally follow it around the point and hit it.  I believe because they temporarily loose sight of the prey, they don't want to have it happen again.   I know that is probably over estimating the thought process of the musky, but what else could it be?

Throw Back Lures

As I stated earlier, I typically can convert about 20% of following fish into striking fish.  That leaves about 80% that do not hit.   Again, depending on the fish's attitude (hot or lazy) I will throw back to a fish accordingly.   In the case of a hot fish, I will throw back to the spot where I raised the fish with the original lure.  I will make maybe 4 or 5 casts with the lure and then go to one of my other previously rigged rods.   I will attempt to maintain the same speed on the substitute lure as with the original, but will vary the depth and type of lure.   Example: If the original lure was a fast top-water lure, I would go to a spinner bait or crank bait.  If it was a slow top water or crank bait, I would throw my tiger tube or musky jig.

If the following fish is a lazy fish, I will throw back a slow top water (assuming the original was a spinner or crank) or a jig or tube.  Typically a lazy fish isn't a chasing fish, so I will always slow the bait down as opposed to speeding it up.  

Regardless of whether the fish is hot or lazy, I don't continuously throw to the fish.  If the fish doesn't hit in 10 casts (maximum), I will move off the area and give the fish a chance to reposition.   Again, depending on the mood of the fish, I will come back to the spot accordingly.  If it was a hot fish, I will come back in about 1/2 hour.  If it is a lazy fish, I will come back when a change occurs to the environment such as night fall, wind kicking up or slowing down, storm coming in, etc.

Equipment

Like with most things, having the right equipment is very important.   Typically having a longer rod, in a medium-heavy to heavy action is perfect (6 1/2 feet and longer).  This is especially true when you are on an elevated casting deck.  A longer rod will allow you to make large loops in a figure 8 (or alternate) maneuver.  It will also provide you with the ability to get lure deeper in the water column when you are doing a figure 8.   One word of caution when doing a figure 8, don't have your drag very tight.   A tight drag with non-stretch line with a heavy action rod often leads to hooks being ripped out.   Either thumb the spool during the figure 8 with the reel in free-spool, or fish with a looser drag and thumb hard on the hook set.

Last Tactic

There is one last tactic that is worth mentioning.  My uncle mentioned it to me close to 50 years ago and swears that it works.   Mr. Musky (Frank) who visits this website said it works for him as well.   I have only tried it a couple of times without success, but I like to say that I am not to dumb to continue to learn.   The tactic is literally slapping the lure on the water to regain a fish's attention.  This is typically done with 4 to 6 feet of line out.  You literally whip the rod over your head and slap the water with the lure.   My uncle told me that after the slap, give it just a second and pull the lure with a quick pull.   He said it worked with virtually all lure types.

The Last Word

No matter how proficient you become with a figure 8, muskies will continue to frustrate you, it is the nature of the beast.  You are not going to catch every follower, hopefully at least a representative percentage; however being able to convert some followers into strikers will result in more fish caught season after season.

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Last updated on ...February 3, 2008